Bazaruto Archipelago

A few days of bright warm sun on perfect beaches, no one else around, warm crystal clear water to swim in - what a way to finish a celebratory month in Africa.

I am on the edge of Africa, the middle coast of Mozambique. I was last in Mozambique a few weeks after the end of the bitter and protracted war of liberation that brought Samora Machel to power in 1975. What a strange time it was as my young wife and I travelled through towns where hotels and restaurants had simply been abandoned by their owners who had decided to flee to Portugal. I clearly remember hitchhiking back from Swaziland and being picked up in the dark by Frelimo soldiers who delivered us safely to our pension in Maputo. It did not occur to us to be fearful. Youth is a strange protection. 

Vilanculos is a small fishing village 700 kilometres north of Beira. It is the access point for the exquisite Bazaruto Archipelago, a paradise of sand islands, aquamarine waters, warm ocean and idyllic balmy temperatures year round. More recently, some of the islands have become the home of uber-exclusive resorts that host the obscenely wealthy who are flown in by helicopter from the tiny local airport. 

I was able to ignore that as I walked the beaches, swam and snorkelled in the warm waters and relaxed for a few days before returning to my real life. The colours are seductive and magical. The people are gentle and welcoming. It would be very difficult not to relax here! 

The long journey home starts today.

Kruger Park

For six days I have been living amongst the wild life of Africa. Kruger Park is a very large conservation area along the eastern border of South Africa with Mozambique and the wildlife has been studied and managed for over a hundred years. It is entirely in the lowveld but vegetation varies greatly, especially from north to south. 

When I lived in Swaziland I used to bring my son here as often as possible as he loved the excitement of animal spotting. The accommodations are very simple but perfectly comfortable. They have not changed at all in the intervening years. I booked a stay in Satara Rest Camp, in the middle of the park, and Lower Sabie, on the banks of the Sabie River in the south of the park. 

Wild life abounds everywhere. Particularly if you are also interested in the colourful and varied bird life, there is always something to watch. Within a few hours, one can see the Big 5, as inveterate game chasers might say, but there is a lot more than that to see.

Last night, on a game drive, we came across a fresh kill of a large wild buffalo, hunted down by five young male lions. Before they establish their own territories, they cooperate in groups to bring down larger animals. The dead buffalo's head lay right out on the road and the lions were busy tearing into their prey. As the buffalo hide is thick there are only two entry points, the anus and the belly. The animals were in clear view as they feasted, growling as they gnawed, and we could smell the raw red meat, accentuated by digestive gases as the stomach was punctured with a loud long hiss.

For all our daily attempts to be civilized, refined and polite, it is at these moments that one comes face to face with the real story of survival. We do what we have to do to survive. We too are animals, with a strong survival urge, even as we busy our minds with all of the stuff of modern life. For many people on the planet, finding something to fill one's stomach is more important than the acquisition and hoarding of possessions and wealth. 

This has been an amazing revisit to an incredible location. Come to savour and enjoy if you can.

The Garden Route

I have just spent a week exploring this beautiful part of South Africa.  The stark cliffs, surging surf, sea mists, endless beaches, remote wilderness and cozy seaside communities, excellent food and a plethora of comfortable accommodations, make for a perfect holiday. Animals and birds abound. Local people of all colours are friendly and helpful.

  The Garden Route wends its away along roughly 200 kilometres of shoreline from Mossel Bay in Western Cape to Jeffrey's Bay in Eastern Cape. Every manner of activity is available, from hiking through serious game viewing to skydiving. One can indulge in relaxing pursuits or extreme adventure according to your energy and predilection. The climate is kind all year round and sunshine is never far away. Much of the area is under conservation and the Indian Ocean is very beautiful in all its moods.

Travel here if you can for an unforgettable holiday!