Ethiopia has a very distinct history within Africa. It has never been colonized. The Italian fascists occupied the country for five years during WW2 but left quickly and the emperor of the time, Haile Selassie, resumed his reign. Ethiopia also has a long history of repelling invaders.
Ethiopians are not one distinct ethnic group. Over 80 languages are spoken and there is enormous geographic and cultural diversity. Christianity came early to Ethiopia, in the 4th century CE, and two thirds of the population belong to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. The church has a powerful influence and still gives the country very conservative mores. It is surprising to see the devotion of even its young people, praying fervently in and around the churches, kissing gates and windows, bowing before icons and asking passing priests for a blessing. The priest offers the cross and the penitent kisses it and is touched by it.
Ethiopians are not one distinct ethnic group. Over 80 languages are spoken and there is enormous geographic and cultural diversity. Christianity came early to Ethiopia, in the 4th century CE, and two thirds of the population belong to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. The church has a powerful influence and still gives the country very conservative mores. It is surprising to see the devotion of even its young people, praying fervently in and around the churches, kissing gates and windows, bowing before icons and asking passing priests for a blessing. The priest offers the cross and the penitent kisses it and is touched by it.
The population is high, over 100 000 000, and Addis Ababa is a sprawling, mostly uninteresting megalopolis. Land cannot be privately owned but is leased. The highlands are intensely cultivated, almost everywhere the eye can see and 70% of the population still lives in rural areas.
The emperor was overthrown in 1974 and replaced by a communist regime, now mostly known for a campaign of terror and mass murder. It was replaced by a democratic government but one party has dominated until today. It is extraordinary that slaves, which numbered in the millions, were not freed until 1942. With such a different social history, a visit is well worthwhile.
There is an evident gentleness about the people, and manners are very important. Greetings are elaborate with much shoulder touching while handshaking! The man hug must have come from here! Women seem to be surprisingly equal for Africa and are everywhere involved in commerce and industry. The young seem to have little to do in the towns and cities though and given how numerous they are, this must create a lot of social stress.
It is very challenging to be an independent tourist here as information does not abound and most people just hire someone to take them around everywhere. Everyone seems to be a 'guide'! When I have chatted with potential guides I have quickly concluded they have neither the linguistic skills nor the background knowledge to be helpful and would better be described as drivers. I have chosen to proceed on my own and have had a wonderful time. Those offering help have not been a persistent nuisance. I feel no danger, day or night.
The weather is lovely in October as the rainy season is now over, it is green everywhere and temperatures are moderate on the high plateau. There is much history to be explored, starting with the Kingdom of Axum near the northern border with Eritrea.
