The Okavango Delta in Botswana

A vast catchment area in the south of Angola feeds the Okavango River which pours into the Okavango Delta, a vast water area completely surrounded by desert. The Delta is relatively shallow and filled with islands of grasses, interspersed with channels of faster flowing water and paths created by elephants and hippos crashing through. It is very difficult to comprehend how there can be so much water in this hot dry part of Africa. The water level peaks in June, months after the rains recede and is at its lowest point as the rains begin. Four metres of water is considered low in the Delta, and how many rivers never reach the ocean?

A four hour fast boat ride took me far into the delta through a giant outdoor aviary. Lying in the reeds on both sides were all sizes of crocodiles, some as long as 4 metres. They would stay dead still until the boat was very close and then, in an explosion of action, jump into the water. The stunning colours of the carmine bee eaters and malachite kingfishers and vast numbers of fish eagles and little egrets delight. 

My destination was Pepere Island, a small island far into the Delta where a very sparse tenting camp has been set up with no electricity and no commerce. Hippos came through the camp later in the evening. The following day I took a long mokoro (traditional dugout canoe pushed by a person with a very long pole)  ride on the channels created by large animals and admired the endless flowers and grasses, including beautiful water lilies of various colours. There were tiny frogs everywhere, on the reeds and the water lily leaves. Those frogs create a deafening chorus as the sun sets and later larger frogs with deeper voices join them. At one stage I was very close to a huge hippo who quickly took shelter underwater. 

Then I had a long walk through the bush with a very knowledgable guide who could explain the bird, animal and plant life. We were in search of elephants but sadly came across none. 

However, the following day our patient guide headed out again and we came across a breeding herd of elephants, with four babies. This makes it much harder to approach the herd as the mothers will do what it takes to guard their babies. I have always found the walks in game parks especially exciting as one puts one's life at risk to get closer to the animals without the protection of a vehicle. 

Today I have made the long return journey up along the Okavango River and then driven the length of the Caprivi Strip and am poised to enter Chobe National Park, with its 50 000 elephants tomorrow.