Magic and Mystery in Mandalay

Here at last, in Mandalay. My first impressions are of being somewhere really different.

The people look different. Their faces, clothing and lived environment are quite different from the rest of South East Asia. I am more reminded of India as I move around. 

The streets of Mandalay are busy and dirty and  buildings are generally drab and unkempt. The sidewalks are cluttered with shelters, furniture and goods. The roadsides are just dirt and gravel. Most traffic is scooters and bicycles. Cars have steering wheels on the right but also drive on the right. I have never seen this before. Negotiating through traffic is therefore difficult. In the absence of traffic lights, vehicles just move into the junction and claim a passage through. There is no squabbling. Horns toot, often for no apparent reason, another Indian reminder.

The friendliness of the people appears genuine. They shout out greetings and only expect greetings back. Often, people want to engage in conversation and yet they are not touts. It is delightful.

Almost all men and women, young and old,  wear longyis, the distinctive lower garment. It is tied in such a way that walking, running, squatting, etc. are all accomplished with ease. Men wear a checkered cloth, women wear all colours and patterns. Women are as publicly visible as men and are not shy to smile. They often have thanata, a yellow skin cream made from the bark and wood of a local tree, as sun protection on the cheeks.

Poverty is highly visible. One can frequently see people living in shacks made of tarps and cloth by the side of the road. There is a sprinkling of beggars but they are not aggressive at all. Homeless people sleep on benches and on the ground. 

Despite the poverty, goods are available everywhere. The public market is busy and very crowded. There is nothing one cannot buy! The highest profile businesses and the most glossy sell technology. Obviously there is a revolution under foot. Internet is widely available and cell phones are ubiquitous. Scooter operators easily operate phones on the go! People all seem busy and involved. 

Factories, large and small, but mostly small, are integrated with the city housing. Small printing presses, mills, pharmaceutical production, mechanics, gyms, streetside restaurants and carts all mix together and create a sense of energy and purpose. It is still the cooler season in February and activity does not wane in the heat of the day.

There is a beautiful coolness in the mornings. Many people, again both men and women, exercise by walking briskly in the morning. There is a whole hour of coolness before the sun heats up!

This is a unique and fascinating place to be!