This is the most sacred Buddhist site in all of Myanmar. Its history stretches back into antiquity and glorious tales are recited of its origins. It occupies a prominent position, built on a small hill in downtown Yangon. The complex is enormous and filled with statuary, halls, and monuments surrounding the pagoda itself, which appears to pierce the sky. The vane and orb at the top are encrusted in precious jewels and the entire structure is covered in gold.
Spiritual and national aspirations combine here. Pilgrims of all faiths come to bear witness to its majesty. All around the base of the pagoda are altars for each day of the week and one prays at the altar of the day of one's birth. I had to confess I had no idea which day I was born. It is interesting that the date is more important to me than the day. I must change and grow!
All around, in the various halls, people gather to chant and meditate. There is a never ending noisy hum of human activity, yet a sense of peace pervades. Meditation proved a challenge for me as I can usually count on a peaceful contemplative location. This is anything but. And yet I persisted. The general rule of walking clockwise around temples and pagodas breaks down completely here and everyone goes every which way! A delightful chaos envelops the experience.
The British colonial authorities were obviously unimpressed by the sacred atmosphere as they turned the entire area into a barracks and an arsenal! Arrogance or ignorance?
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