Overland

In transit

After my extraordinary experience in the Mountains of the Moon, I spent a night by Lake Bunyonyi and had a lovely quiet boat ride, during which I was able to spot some crested cranes, the national bird of Uganda. A long jail term awaits anyone who harms them.

Then, I was dropped off in Kabale, a busy provincial town 20 kilometres north of the Rwandan border. I got a shared taxi ride and was soon at the border post, crowded with trucks and cars. Very few pedestrians were going through, especially Canadians pulling suitcases! It was easy to check out of Uganda and walk a kilometre over a muddy dirt road to check in to Rwanda. I had an electronic visa, which caused a bit of consternation, but before long I was headed out on foot into a new country. There was no sign of a place I could change money so I continued until I found a van that was pointed in the right direction. Passengers were loading and I was told I could pay when I reached my destination! 

We did not travel very fast as these vans have a 'speed governor' installed in orderly Rwanda and can not exceed the speed limit of 60 kilometres per hour! The van left when it was full and continued to get a good deal fuller as we proceeded. A knock on the metal door frame signalled that a passenger wished to alight. The 80 kilometre journey took two hours, what with controlled speed, many stops, limping uphill and the tying on of various kinds of baggage!

When we reached the crowded central bus station, I went in search of an exchange bureau. I had been chatting with a young fellow beside me during the journey, and while I was looking for money, he paid my fare! I insisted on paying him as he had told me what a struggle his life is economically. Imagine though, he was prepared to part with his money to help a complete stranger. This is what Africa is really like. It is normal and expected for people to be kind, neighbourly, helpful, polite and respectful. 

It is worthy of note that the two hour journey cost $2! To get from the bus station to my quarters, I had to pay $6 for a ramshackle private taxi! That journey took five minutes! The taxi driver had no English and had no idea where the guesthouse was. Nor did I of course. Thank goodness for Google Maps which works perfectly in the centre of Africa. I was able to give him very clear left and right turn signals!