Monday 20 August 2018

Visiting long lost family


https://photos.app.goo.gl/HFDVsPzfm1TPuvsC7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HFDVsPzfm1TPuvsC7

This is the highlight of the trip. I have spent ages preparing. Up at dawn to make hurried preparations, a quick breakfast, and off into the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in search of mountain gorillas, one of the world's most endangered species. We go through a briefing and registration and are assigned to groups based on fitness. Some gorilla families live far away! Each group has no more than eight visitors. The permits must be bought months in advance. 

I am well dressed for the adventure. There are stinging nettles everywhere so I am wearing winter running tights under my safari pants and running gloves. A long walking pole is needed for steep slopes. Protected by armed guards (protection from mountain elephants)  in front and behind, and a knowledgable guide, we trek out into the forest. 

After two hours, we learn that the trackers are nearby, having struggled with confusing tracks all morning but eventually locating the troupe. We are guided very close to the gorillas who are resting after foraging all morning. The family has 13 members, the leader a splendid silverback. There were several babies in the group, the youngest only 8 months old. We watched as they rested, the adults trying to nap, the babies refusing to do so and amusing us endlessly with their antics as they climbed, fell, wrestled, fed, fought and reconciled. Every now and then the adults would reach out and pull the babies back but they did not rest. 

I was struck by the vulnerability of the 8 month old. His muscle control was very weak but he was very brave as he struggled to explore his environment. He fell about constantly, often ending up upside down back amongst the adults. The young feed from the mother for up to three years, very similar, appropriately, to human young. The expressions of the young were almost invariably astonishment and befuddlement, much to the delight of our group. We enjoyed a full hour of this interaction but the last 15 minutes, the silverback decided the group needed to get back to feeding and we followed them as they set out on their second foraging of the day. They don't necessarily stick closely together as they move through the tight undergrowth in search of their favourite foods. They enjoy a tremendous variety of plants, perhaps over 70, and sometimes treat themselves to ants and termites too.

The silverback is a magnificent creature. He was sitting up straight as we arrived and then he settled down for his nap too. At one stage, he flopped over onto his stomach so we got a beautiful view of his silver back. He participated frequently in care of the young, pulling them back gently to the safety of the group.The silver colouring happens as the male reaches 12/13 years. 

This was one of the most moving experiences I have ever had and when it was over I was overwhelmed by feelings of joy and delight.  This is an opportunity not to be missed, to come into contact with our first cousins for the first time. 



No comments:

Post a Comment